https://www.lifegate.it/lino-tessuto-moda-sostenibile
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From low environmental impact cultivation to properties such as durability, resistance and thermoregulation.The linen it's one ecological fibre with countless virtues, especially in relation to the environment, and according to European Flax and Hemp Confederation (CELC) it can represent a turning point for the traditional textile and clothing industry.
The contribution of linen to the world of fashion
The restructuring of the production processes in the world of fashion, from the cultivation of the fiber to its transformation into fabric and then into finished clothes, finds an important ally in the linen sector.She was the one who told us about it Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung, general delegate of Celc.
A study recently revealed the important potential of this fiber in the field of sustainability.How can it contribute to changing the fashion industry by making it more virtuous?
Linen is based on the three key pillars of sustainable development.On a social level, its production is ethical because it does not use products harmful to humans and requires a qualified workforce that operates in compliance with the standards of the International Labor Office.Its cultivation is also ecological because it preserves ecosystems while significantly reducing its impact.The production of this fiber also proves to be equally virtuous on an economic level, stimulating agricultural and industrial employment, thanks to excellent know-how and European jobs that cannot be relocated.These specific characteristics of linen are able to improve the textile and clothing industry, responding perfectly to the need for less impactful processes to satisfy consumers who are increasingly willing to purchase responsibly.
In the common imagination, linen is still linked to past trends.How can we relocate it in today's context?
Anchored to a long history of tradition and innovation that has lasted for 36 thousand years, this material becomes the answer to new scenarios necessary when fashion wants to break away from the rhythm of the seasons and when styles are no longer indicators of identity.Responsible and aware, it surprises with its versatility in applications and combinations with other sustainable fibres:is able to satisfy the desire for freshness and lightness with fabrics for shirts, micro weaves, piqué, seersucker effects, double "feather" in soft, mottled or slightly faded colours.Finally, it rhymes with comfort and flexibility in linen-silk or tencel combinations, stretch linen, with fine coatings and blends with a touch of cashmere for mid-season.
Diffusion in fashion collections
This fabric is finding more and more space within clothing and home collections.For the spring/summer 2021 season, the trend is confirmed by a massive presence of linen garments on the catwalks of luxury brands.
How widespread is it in ready-to-wear collections today?
In this context, Celc asked the Tagwalk company to analyze its presence on the catwalks in the last two seasons.For the summer of 2021, we saw a 102 percent increase in linen silhouettes in women's ready-to-wear compared to the previous summer.And while it remains the fiber of choice for eco-responsible brands, 64 percent of luxury brands used it significantly for the first time this season.
But how are you at Celc trying to encourage its diffusion?
Celc launched the digital platform linendreamlab.com for spring-summer 2022.This tool was created to facilitate relationships between Celc members such as spinners, weavers, knitters and their customers, as well as brands and designers.Procurement is facilitated by the simplicity of the interface:by registering on the platform, it will be possible to create your own selection among the fabrics and yarns presented, build a mood board and come into direct contact with the producers.This platform was designed to grow over time and over the seasons, going hand in hand with a linen training program for brands and distribution, and with a support campaign for the development of sales in boutiques or on e-commerce. “I love linen.”