How to Make a Workbench in the Garage

https://www.wikihow.it/Realizzare-un-Banco-da-Lavoro-in-Garage

•  05-09-2024  | 
• italia  | 
• fai da te  | 
• Trapano  | 
• Livella  | 
• Piano da lavoro (per es. piano semilavorato, compensato, porta in legno massello)  | 
• Quattro gambe con listelli da 10x10  | 
• Quattro traverse con listelli da 5x10  | 
• Due supporti superiori con listelli da 5x10  | 
• Sega  | 
• Punta per trapano da 10 mm  | 
• 12 viti da 10 mm con relative rondelle e dadi  | 
• Viti a testa quadrata  | 
• Materiale come il compensato per il piano inferiore (facoltativo)  | 
• Attrezzi necessari  | 
• Sega circolare (meglio se da 18v) o un seghetto da traforo  | 
• Trapano/avvitatore (è consigliabile un modello a batteria da 18v)  | 
• Attrezzi per l'eventuale finitura  | 
• Levigatrice orbitale, a nastro con cartavetro da 80, 150 e 220  | 
• Rifilatore con inserti da 3 / 6mm per stondare  | 
• Per il banco da lavoro  | 
• Fogli di compensato (o truciolare) da 2,5 m x 1,25 m x 2cm  | 
• Listelli da 5x10 cm  | 
• Staffe in acciaio da 46-51 cm  | 
• Striscia frontale in acero  | 
• Striscia laterale in acero  | 
• Viti da 5,5-7,5 cm (per fissare i listelli da 5x10, viti da 7,5 cm da cartongesso)  | 
• Viti da 3,8 cm (per fissare le staffe al muro)  | 
• Viti da da 1,7 cm (per fissare le staffe al piano)  | 
• Collo poliuretanica  | 
• Finitura poliuretanica  | 
• Per i cassetti  | 
• Listelli da 5x10 per appoggiare i cassetti.  | 
• Fogli di truciolare per il piano  | 
• Assi di pino da 2,5x5 cm per le sponde  | 
• 1 paio di carrelli per ogni cassetto  | 

The workbench is the basis of any workshop.If you want to make a traditional one or one with shelves to maximize space, follow these instructions.

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Build a Custom Workbench

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1. 
   1
   Determine the dimensions of the workbench. Measure the desired length, width and height considering the space you have available and take note of the measurements.
2. 
   2
   Find a table top. You can use thick wood (rather expensive) or thinner laminate (cheaper) or sheets of plywood placed one on top of the other.For an affordable and durable alternative, try reclaiming an old solid wood door;ask around, on construction sites, in buildings under restoration.The thing to remember is that the plan will have to be dish And resistant.

   • Cut the top to the required size.
3. 
   3
   Cut four legs using 10x10cm strips. The length of each leg should be calculated keeping in mind the desired workbench height minus the thickness of the worktop itself.
4. 
   4
   Cut the crossbars using 10x5 cm strips. If you want the bench top to be flush with the frame underneath (which we'll build in steps 8 and 9), each crosspiece should be equal to the width of the bench minus the width of 2 10x5cm pieces;However, if you want the frame to protrude slightly from under the top, for example to hang pliers, cut the crosspieces to a length equal to the width of the bench top.

   • Since the 10x5 strips are not very regular, measure their width to make a precise cut.
5. 
   5
   Place each top crossbar on a pair of legs. Lay two 10x10 strips parallel to each other, so that the distance from the left edge to the right edge is equal to the length of the crosspiece.Place a crosspiece between them, placing it flush with both edges (and with what will be the bench top).Repeat the operation on the other pair of legs.
6. 
   6
   Screw each top crosspiece to the two legs. Using a 10mm bit, drill two holes through the two different strips.Make sure you drill opposite diagonal holes (e.g.one at the top left and the other at the bottom right), in order to leave space for the third screw that you will place later.Starting from the smaller strips, place the screws in the pre-holes.Remember to add washers and nuts, tightening everything with a wrench.When you're done, the screw tips should come out of the 10x10 laths.Repeat the operation on the other two legs.
7. 
   7
   Screw the lower crossbar to the legs. Turn a couple of them over and repeat the operation in steps 7 and 8 with another crossbar;instead of aligning the crosspieces with the base of the legs, raise them a few centimeters so as not to place them flush with the floor.When you're done, you'll have the top crossbar at the top of your legs and the other one almost at the base of your legs.

   • If you want to put a low shelf between the crosspieces, place it between them trying to do not raise it more than 1/3 of the height of the legs;the lower the crossbars, the more stable the bench will be.
8. 
   8
   Cut two upper supports using 10x5 cm strips. Each support should be as long as the bench top.
9. 
   9
   Screw the supports into place. Lay the pairs of legs with the top crossbars placed on the outside (e.g.one in the opposite direction from the other), so that the distance from the left outer edge to the right outer edge is equal to the length of the upper support.Pre-drill holes through the top support to the 10x10 slats on both sides (try to do this between the existing screws) and then screw the support into place with square head screws.Turn the structure over and repeat the operation on the other side.When you're done, the four legs should be surrounded by a frame on top.
10. 
    10
    Secure the bench top. Lay the pieces in place and pre-drill holes going down through the bottom supports if necessary.Screw with square head screws to secure the structure.

    • If your countertop is thick, you could screw it on starting from the top;in this way the surface will be smooth and without screws.However, do this only if the surface is thick enough to avoid the risk of the screws popping out.
11. 
    11
    Attach a low shelf (optional). Take the measurements between the four legs, cut a shelf of the desired material (e.g.plywood) and screw it into place.
12. 
    12
    Finish the bench according to your preferences. For example, you can sand the wood, apply stain and polyurethane finish.
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Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Build a Sturdy Shelf to Use as a Workbench

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1. 
   1
   Attach a 5x10 cm strip horizontally. The length of the strip will be the same as the workbench (in this case we use a 4.8 m piece).Use a level to check that it is perfectly horizontal.

   • Depending on the steel brackets you have and the distance of the hole from the corner of the bracket, you may need 5x12 cm strips.
   • The top surface of the 5x10cm strip in this example is 1 meter or 1.5 meters above the ground.If you have to park a car in the garage and want to put it under the shelf, also consider the dimensions of the car's hood.
   • Use 6.5 cm screws (or 7 cm for plasterboard walls) if you want to attach the strips to the wall.
2. 
   2
   Attach another piece of wood the same size as the first one just below. The space between the two parallel strips should be chosen depending on the length of the steel brackets.
3. 
   3
   Attach the brackets to the battens. You will need some very sturdy brackets.The top of the bracket must be flush with the top face of the top batten.Use a piece of plywood as a temporary shelf and place it against the brackets.Use 38mm screws to secure them.You will end up with two strips against the wall and a row of brackets attached to them.There should be approximately 60 cm between one bracket and the other.

   • If you want, you can alternate between different types of brackets (strong, lightweight, durable, etc.) to have a solid surface but with space to put a chair underneath.
4. 
   4
   Cut two plywood panels 60 cm wide and 2 cm thick. A 4x8 foot sheet will do just fine.Place the panel on the brackets and screw it to the highest batten.Place the second one next to the first and place a 15x45cm plywood joint underneath.
5. 
   5
   Place another strip in the middle of the top of the shelf and screw it to the wall.
6. 
   6
   Attach a front strip to the edge of the shelf. Glue and screw a 3.8x1.9 cm maple strip.This strip will increase the strength of the shelf.
7. 
   7
   Attach the drawers to the bottom of the shelf. These drawers will accommodate smaller tools.They should be 60cm wide, 3.8cm deep and 45.7cm long.To make and fix the shelves:

   • You can attach 1" x 4" pine strips to the bottom of the shelf.The short part of the strip can be fixed with glue and screws.
   • Attach the metal drawer trolleys to the strips.
   • Build the drawers with a chipboard base and pine sides (2.5x5 cm).The drawers must then be inserted into the pine strips fixed on the plywood panel.
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Advice

• For the shelf, screws are better than nails.Drywall screws are cheap, come in various sizes, and are easy to screw in, but they're for drywall and that's it;we recommend using quality screws.Invest in an electric screwdriver to save a lot of time.
• You can put a light above the countertop.Used pool table lights can be purchased cheaply and add a decorative touch to the garage, but any type of lighting will add value to the work space.
• Always keep a tape measure handy to measure the wood you buy.Often, customers of specialized shops mix the various pieces or shorter pieces are put back on the shelves.If you can measure them before buying them you will save a lot of time!
• Rather than using steel nails, which tend to shift over time, use exterior screws.They are much easier to remove in case you need to change the bench.
• A 3 or 6 mm masonite top will make the surface very resistant.
• Try to already have the dimensions of the wood in mind before buying it;many specialized shops make custom cuts, reducing your working time.
• The dye and finish mixes do not waterproof and protect like 2-3 coats of finish alone.If you use this combined product, try giving it additional finishing coats, especially if you intend to use the bench for "heavy" work.
• By using an orbital sander with 80 (up to 150 grit) sandpaper you can give a smooth and uniform surface to your bench.This operation is also an excellent preparation for finishing.Use 220 grit sandpaper between finishes for a professional finish.
• Use a trimmer with a round insert (3 or 6 mm depending on your taste) to trim the maple strip on the edge.
• By adding legs to the front of the shelves, using 10x10 strips, you will significantly increase stability and resistance, a not insignificant detail if you want to use the bench for nailing.

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Things you will need

Custom Workbench

• Work surface (e.g.semi-finished top, plywood, solid wood door)
• Four legs with 10x10 slats
• Four crosspieces with 5x10 slats
• Two upper supports with 5x10 strips
• Saw
• Drill
• 10mm drill bit
• 12 x 10 mm screws with washers and nuts
• Square head screws
• Material such as plywood for the bottom shelf (optional)

Rack

• Tools needed:
  • Circular saw (preferably 18v) or a fretsaw
  • Drill/screwdriver (an 18v battery-powered model is recommended)
  • Level
• Tools for any finishing:
  • Orbital belt sander with 80, 150 and 220 sandpaper
  • Trimmer with 3/6mm inserts for rounding
• For the workbench:
  • 2.5m x 1.25m x 2cm sheets of plywood (or chipboard).
  • 5x10 cm strips
  • 46-51 cm steel brackets
  • Maple front strip
  • Maple side stripe
  • 5.5-7.5 cm screws (for fixing 5x10 strips, 7.5 cm plasterboard screws)
  • 3.8 cm screws (to attach the brackets to the wall)
  • 1.7cm screws (to secure the brackets to the top)
  • Polyurethane collar
  • Polyurethane finish
• For the drawers:
  • 5x10 strips to support the drawers.
  • Chipboard sheets for the top
  • 2.5x5 cm pine boards for the sides
  • 1 pair of trolleys for each drawer

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