How to Make Knitted Socks

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https://www.wikihow.it/Fare-dei-Calzettoni-a-Maglia

Got some yarn you can't wait to turn into socks?Forget what you know and try following these steps.
  1. Keep in mind that too thick yarn is not suitable for practical socks, even if you would get a nice pair of slippers!
  2. Since this sock pattern is symmetrical, you will need 5 needles:four to hold the work and one mobile to work on it.
  3. Take two needles and pass the thread around them making a figure eight.Each ring will become a point.For small and medium socks, mount eight loops on each pair of needles, for large socks mount ten.
  4. Then take the first needle and work the stitches on the second.The stitches should now be on the first and third needles.These stitches may remain a little loose, as you will tighten them later.
  5. Gradually this type of assembly will become easier!
  6. Work until you get halfway through the row.At this point make a mark to highlight the centre/back of the sock.Take a new needle and work until there is only one stitch left, add one more and work the last stitch.
    • To make a point keep your work taut and find the thread from the previous row hanging between the needles.Take it using the tip of the needle in your right hand, bring it over the needle in your left hand and work it as if it were a normal stitch.


  7. The work must be symmetrical and all four needles should be involved, plus a mobile one.If the socks are large, you will end up with six stitches on each needle;if you make smaller socks you should have five.
  8. Work the first row (all four rows), and add stitches the same way on the next row.For every other iron, add the stitches in this way.Continue until you have 11 (small), 12 (medium), 13 (large) or 14 (very large) stitches on all four needles.
  9. If you don't have the opportunity to have the sock measured during work, take your foot measurements before starting!
  10. If you tighten the end points, you will avoid having structural holes.This method is called short row knitting.
    1. Switch to another mode:work only on two needles on each side of the marker.Leave two rows for the front of the sock, working back and forth (using knit and purl) at the back of the two rows to make the heel.Treat these two irons as if they were one;you can even pass them all on one needle, if you can maintain the symmetry.
    2. The first half of the heel systematically requires "pausing" points.Work all stitches except the last, then pull the thread across the front of the piece (between the needles).Pull the stitches you haven't worked yet onto the other needle and pull the thread through the back of the work again.Turn the work and pass the unworked stitch through behind on the empty needle, then continue with the purl as before.The result will be an unworked stitch in the "back row", as if the thread had turned around.It will remain "paused" until you retrieve it.It will stay on the iron where there will always be the same number of points.
    3. Purl the rest of the row apart from the last stitch, "twisting" it in the same way and leaving it unworked, waiting.
    4. Turn the work and continue, until there are only two stitches left on the needle (one of which is the waiting one).Twist this stitch as you did before and turn the work.Purl all stitches except the last two;twist the last stitch and turn the work.
    5. On each row, twist the next stitch until you have twisted 7 stitches on each side.The last row of this work should be purled, then the seventh stitch needs to be twisted.
    6. To finish the second half of the heel bone, start picking up the stitches one by one.Work one row, and when you get to the first twisted stitch, pick up the ring at the same time and work it.Twist again the point.Then turn the work and begin purling.This point is back "active".
    7. At the end of each row, recover the stitch to "reactivate" it, working the ring with the stitch.Each time you do this, twist the next inactive point as you did to deactivate it.
    8. When you've reactivated all the stitches, you should have a heel-shaped workpiece.The last row of the heel should be purled, so you should recover and knit the last of the twisted stitches.
  11. Work until you get to the point where the heel attaches to the main part of the sock, which you have ignored until now.
    • At this point, if you continue working, you will most likely find a small irritating hole on your ankle where the heel joins the sock.The next step was written to prevent that from happening.
  12. When you get to the point where the heel joins the rest of the sock, take the thread between the two needles and add a stitch.On the next step, work it with the neighboring stitch, two together.This will avoid the irritating hole.Do the same thing on the other side of the heel.
  13. Start by knitting one row and purling one row to make the ribs.The ribbing will prevent the sock from bunching up, but if you want to get a pixie boot-type effect, you can skip this step!
  14. Disassemble loosely, even less than you think is right, because disassembling tightly can make the sock very uncomfortable and difficult to put on.
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Things you will need

  • Yarn
  • Needles, possibly 5 double pointed
  • Work scheme for making knitted socks
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